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| Comparing Kits |
| What exactly is a 'complete' log package anyway? |
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| By Jim Cooper |
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Perhaps the most
frustrating challenge facing log home shoppers is comparing
prices quoted by different companies. It seems that no two kits
are alike. Each manufacturer has its own idea about what should
be included in a log home package. One's standard item is the
second's option, and a third may not carry the item at all.
Complicating the picture is the fact that log home manufacturers
do not all use the same building system. What may be necessary
to construct one manufacturer's kit may not be required to
complete another's. I've had customers call me pleading,
"Help! What's a fly rafter? Do I really need six? How much
do they cost? Can I buy them cheaper locally?"
Here, then, is a method for beating a path through the thicket
of kit comparisons without getting scratched. Most log home
shoppers are not experienced builders, so they often lack the
detailed knowledge necessary to evaluate the completeness of a
kit. It's easy to get lulled into a false sense of security by
impressive diagrams or materials lists. If you're not careful,
you may overlook the one question necessary to obtain an
accurate price comparison: "What will I need that's not on
this list?" Only by filling in the missing blanks for each
kit you are considering can you discover which package offers
the best value.
Here are areas I've found that vary widely among kits: log
dimensions (a tall, thin log requires less linear footage to
complete a log wall than a shorter, thicker log); log gables
(most include solid?log gables only as an option); window and
door units (they range from cheap to top quality); subfloor
system and dimensional lumber (they may be part of option
packages only); exterior and interior door and window trim;
interior framing; interior doors; stairs; stair and loft
railings; interior partition wall coverings (rarely included in
a basic kit price); soffit and fascia; shingles; exterior wood
preservative; porch and deck materials (often part of optional
packages only).
The secret to a realistic comparison is a systematic approach.
First, decide what actually needs comparing. If your objective
is a turnkey house (one that will be completely built and
finished by a professional builder), comparing kit prices may be
largely irrelevant. What the turnkey home shopper needs to
compare is the bottom line finished house price. You can figure
this by taking the kit prices with blueprints and material lists
to the builders you are considering. They will provide a turnkey
quote that includes all work, which you specify. All you need do
is compare turn?key bids.
If you are planning to erect your own log package or act as your
own general contractor, price comparisons are more difficult.
First, make sure each quote has a detailed material list
attached. You must know exactly what you are purchasing. A good
book on carpentry (not just log home building) is invaluable
because it can illustrate and explain terminology in the lists
that may be unfamiliar to you.
Break the material list into sections. Then set up a chart with
sections and individual items in a column and names of the kits
you want to compare in a row across the top. Next to each item,
note whether it is included in the kit. If it isn't, ask the kit
manufacturer if that item will be necessary or desirable to
complete the house. Then call a local supplier to get an
estimate on it. Place that cost figure into your quote
comparison. You can omit items beyond the scope of any of the
kits (plumbing or light fixtures, for example).
Because manufacturers do not organize their materials the same
way, it may be easier to establish your own section headings. I
use 1st?Floor System, Wall System, 2nd?Floor System, Roof
System, Interior Framing System, Dormers, Porches and
Breezeways, Decks, Garages.
Beneath each section, list the items necessary to complete that
system. Under 1st?Floor System, I list support posts, girder
beam, sill sealer insulation, treated sill lumber, band lumber
(to surround the subfloor), floor joists or beams, joist hangers
(necessary in certain situations), subflooring and finished
floor covering (wood, carpet, vinyl, etc.). Don't forget to list
glues, caulks, nails, screws and other fasteners; all are
necessary parts of the building system, too.
Try to deal only in hard numbers. When you have to make an
assumption about something, write it down and verify it. If you
are comparing a kit that includes a subfloor system with one
that doesn't, take your blueprints or a floorplan to your local
lumberyard and ask how much a subfloor system costs that meets
local building codes. Add this figure to the price of the kit
that lacks a subfloor (don't forget the cost of delivery). Now
you have a better idea of how the two kits compare.
Your comparison should include the grade and quality of items
included in each kit. Often a seemingly more expensive kit
actually is a better value because it contains a higher grade of
certain materials. One kit may have a top?line window, for
example, while another includes an inexpensive unit. One company
may base its quote on an 8?inch?thick log against a competitor's
6?inch log.
Labor costs to erect the package are another area for detailed
comparison. If you are having your kit erected, get firm
estimates from builders who can do the work. You may even be
able to transfer some of the work of comparing kit materials to
the builder. Instruct him as to the degree of completeness that
you want. Tell him to include the price of any materials
necessary to reach the stage of completion that are not in the
kit. But beware! Should a builder neglect to include something
significant (such as a subfloor) in your estimate, don't expect
him to eat that cost, even if it is his error. Instead, he may
simply disappear, leaving you to pay for the missing materials
and find another builder. The moral is: Have confidence in any
builder before you turn over such a task, keep a close watch and
ask questions.
Don't assume that dimensional lumber and items such as shingles
purchased locally are more economical because of savings in
freight costs. Most log packages are shipped by the truckload.
It doesn't cost any more to ship a truck that contains a
half?load of logs and a half?load of other building materials
than it does to ship that half?load of logs by itself. Because
the buying power of the log company is generally better than an
individual's buying power (log companies often deal directly
with manufacturers and sawmills), it may actually be cheaper to
purchase even dimensional lumber, such as 2?by?4s, from the log
company.
Avoid being wooed by offers of "free freight." There
isn't a trucking company n the country that will haul a
tractor?trailer load of logs free of charge. Log companies
offering "free freight" are simply building the
freight cost into their kit rice. It may work to your advantage
or it may not. If the company offers "free freight up to
700 miles from the plant" and you live 300 miles from the
plant, you may be paying for 400 miles of additional freight.
Keep your eye on the bottom line. A $30,000 package with a
$3,000 freight charge means the same to your checkbook as a
$33,000 package with free freight.
Another factor to weigh in any kit comparison is the log home
manufacturer and its sales representative. One company's package
may be slightly more expensive than another's, but you feel more
comfortable dealing with that company.How much is that peace of
mind worth to you? One company may include on-site assistance,
while another provides a detailed construction manual or video.
Which is more important? And how do you include those factors in
your cost analysis? The answers will depend on your personal
situation.
Finally, consider your building circumstances. Perhaps you are
hiring a builder or taking your vacation to erect your log kit.
It is probably to your advantage to have all of your materials
on site at one time, so a more complete kit may be more
desirable. On the other hand, you may be erecting your log home
yourself on weekends, working when time permits, paying cash as
you go to avoid a large loan commitment. In this case, it may be
better to purchase a more limited kit. Doing so avoids not only
the larger cash outlay, but also costs and concerns for material
storage and protection. Why pay in advance for materials that,
once purchased, sit on the building site for several months
before they are needed?
So consider your wants, your needs and your circumstances
carefully. Research thoroughly and keep your eye firmly on your
bottom line. You'll be more confident in your selection of a log
package. You'll also gain a better understanding of what will be
involved in putting up your log home, and you'll have the peace
of mind that comes from having a solid grip on this crucial part
of your overall house-building budget. |
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